EST. 2013

LINDA’S ARTWORLD

A collection of Linda’s artworks, designs, humanitarian projects and publications where light, space, and mathematical precision intersect.

Day 51: Shibuya and Mitaka by Train

Written by

Linda

in

Date
2022-12-01, Thursday
Distance
0 km biked (2859.31 km in total)
Shibuya and Mitaka by Train — photograph 1 of 8 Shibuya and Mitaka by Train — photograph 2 of 8 Shibuya and Mitaka by Train — photograph 3 of 8
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We chose to stay in Fujisawa last evening, largely due to a scheduling misstep. During our 3-day stay in Tokyo, we had failed to secure tickets to the Ghibli Museum where reservations must now be made well in advance. We could only get a pair of tickets for the 1st of December. As a workaround, we opted to ride westward, checked into a hotel, and returned to the Tokyo area by train to visit the museum. An inefficient detour, perhaps — but well worth it in the end.

Ghibli Museum is nested in Mitaka, a suburb of Tokyo Metropolitan area. We arrived via a charming bus adorned with familiar Ghibli characters. At the entrance, we were greeted by a giant Totoro — Ghibli's beloved mascot. Inside the gates, we were struck by the massive line-up that went all the way to the other side of the building and how many international visitors there were — likely close to half the crowd. Staff members wore navy Montbell × Ghibli collaboration jackets, embroidered with the studio’s crest. Stylish and distinctive, they were regrettably not for sale.

Photography was not permitted inside the building, so now I can only speak from memories about our journey through winding staircases and quaint nooks of this enchanting world. Designed by Hayao Miyazaki himself, the building exterior features colourful and unorthodox structures that mirror the whimsy of Ghibli's animated works. The interior space was made into an atelier-inspired exhibit that showcases original materials such as concept arts and storyboards used in Ghibli’s productions. A re-creation of an animator’s workspace provided a glimpse into the meticulous world behind the magic.

Shibuya and Mitaka by Train — photograph 1 of 8 Shibuya and Mitaka by Train — photograph 2 of 8 Shibuya and Mitaka by Train — photograph 3 of 8
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In the rooftop garden, a life-size sculpture of the forgotten robot soldier from Laputa: Castle in the Sky (1986) stood amidst foliage, serving as a memorable photo opportunity for Ghibli fans. Lastly, we were ushered into the intimate 80-seat Saturn Theatre, where Ghibli’s exclusive shorts are screened on rotation. That day’s film was Mr. Dough and the Egg Princess (2010).

Overall, it’s a nicely designed museum to visit especially for animation enthusiasts. Its greatest flaw may be its scale — the physical space feels really cramped, partly due to the huge amount of visitors (I was told it’s always this crowded except during the pandemic); wandering through it made me feel rather clumsy. They really need to expand it to accommodate this many people. Its boutique, charming as it was, was equally congested, which didn't offer me a very good shopping experience. Nevertheless, I did get to purchase the full set of Ghibli short film pamphlets that were hard to come by elsewhere.

Shibuya and Mitaka by Train — photograph 1 of 8 Shibuya and Mitaka by Train — photograph 2 of 8 Shibuya and Mitaka by Train — photograph 3 of 8
Shibuya and Mitaka by Train — photograph 4 of 8 Shibuya and Mitaka by Train — photograph 5 of 8 Shibuya and Mitaka by Train — photograph 6 of 8 Shibuya and Mitaka by Train — photograph 7 of 8 Shibuya and Mitaka by Train — photograph 8 of 8

Earlier today, before heading to Mitaka, we also visited Meiji Jingu (明治神宮), a Shinto shrine dedicated to the figurehead of the Meiji Restoration, in Shibuya.

Located within the quiet expanse of some 100,000 trees, this Shinto shrine is an oasis amidst a frenetic city. The overcast sky lent a hushed stillness to the canopy of ancient cedars. The cool, damp air carried the faint scent of vegetation, and the gentle rustle of leaves replaced the usual sound of traffic. With the presence of so many plants that acted as a natural barrier to shun us from the bustle of the capital, the sanctuary grounds felt more solemn, more serene. At the main hall, visitors abunded, but were never too many to make the space cramped. They bowed quietly, clapped twice, and made their wishes, all in quiet devotion — sharp contrast with the burstling and always noisy Nikko Tosho-gu we had visited another day. My visiting experience was more agreeable at the quiet Meiji Jingu, which was well maintained with less vibrant paint. Its quietness leaves me to sense the simple acts of piety of the visitors and natural attractiveness of the building complex.

Tomorrow, we venture to Hakone. When we mentioned this plan to a few locals, they responded with concerned yet knowing smiles — as if to gently warn us of the journey ahead. It seems wise to prepare ourselves mentally. Whether we arrive early or late, I have no doubt the climb will be difficult. But perhaps, like today's detour, the challenge will make the destination all the more memorable.

The full take — 53 more photographs from this day
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