- Date
- 2022-12-07, Wednesday
- Distance
- 35.48 km biked (3271.94 km in total)
After a night of sound sleep at our hosts', we were served traditional Japanese breakfast — eggs, miso soup, rice, grilled fish, and pickles. Their kindness left us both nourished and humbled. With our spirits high and the winter sun rising over Nagoya, we set out for our first destination of the day: Nagoya Castle, one of Japan’s most iconic historical landmarks.
While the castle complex is grand and well-maintained, it's important to note that much of what stands today is a reconstruction. The original structure was heavily damaged during World War II, and the current buildings were rebuilt in the postwar years using historical records and preserved diagrams. Compared to some of the more lavish, theme park-like reconstructions in China, Nagoya Castle’s revival feels more restrained — though still, something of the elusive patina of age feels missing.
The tenshu (天守, the main keep) was closed to visitors during our visit; this was a bit of a letdown. I had hoped to climb to the top for a panoramic view of the city. Still, the surrounding grounds offered some compensations. We explored the Honmaru Palace and other buildings. The interiors revealed an elegant world of polished wood, sliding screens, and rooms adorned with opulent golden wall paintings. Scenes of cranes, pine trees, and cherry blossoms filled the halls with timeless symbolism.
In the Ninomaru Garden, we stumbled upon what seemed to be a seasonal installation blending contemporary art with the peak of autumn foliage. Sculptures scattered among the crimson maples were not something I expected in a historic setting, but it worked — and left me ponder how different eras of expression can coexist on the same soil.
By late afternoon, we were back on the road, pedaling westernward out of Nagoya and toward Gifu Prefecture. Our goal was a roadside station where we would spend the night. Tomorrow, we will continue our pilgrimage toward Sekigahara — the historic battlefield that once decided the fate of Japan. The thought of treading that legendary path filled me with a sense of anticipation.
Before calling it a day, we marked a small celebration of our own. At a quiet corner of the roadside station, we unwrapped a couple of belated birthday cakes for my friend. They were a gesture of appreciation to recognise the passing of time on this long road we are taking together.
For now, we sleep. Tomorrow, we walk into legend.













































































































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